“I like food more than people,” La Fantabulous owner Josie Paredes joked from behind the flat-top grill in her roving taco truck with the seductive mermaid on the side.
At least I think she was kidding.
But the former chef at J. Black’s, who also helped open the original Eddie V’s downtown, turns out juicy salmon that makes a strong argument for the case that she at least knows food as well as she does people. The thick fish, liberally salted, falls apart in pink slabs at the touch of a fork. And it’s the size of a small entree. The type of fish, buried in a spicy slaw mixture shimmering with a vinaigrette alive with jalapeno, rotates at the food truck that is stationed on Rainey Street at night and roves business parking lots during the daytime. Sometimes salmon, sometimes mahi mahi. Never tilapia. (My only gripe: I would have liked a lime to squeeze on my fish.)
The salmon is cradled in two corn tortillas straight from the bag. The same delivery system is used on toasty shrimp that taste like they must have something more going on than just Kosher salt, but Paredes says that’s all there is to it. That and knowing when to pluck those puckers from their sizzling dance to go on a taco dusted with queso fresco and that crunchy cabbage slaw. The shrimp tacos usually come with sections of mandarin, but with no fresh ones available, they were absent on this day. And Paredes wasn’t about to scoop them from a can.
… DIGITAL SUBSCRIBERS: CLICK HERE TO READ MORE about the salsas at La Fantabulous and chef Paredes’ pop-up dinner series.
Hours: Check the La Fantabulous Facebook page for times and daytime locations.
- Fish tacos, two for $9
- Shrimp tacos, two for $9
- Green chili pork quesadilla, $8