Restaurant review: Boiler Nine Bar + Grill

Boiler Nine Bar + Grill restaurant recently opened in the Seaholm Power Plant location on Cesar Chavez in downtown Austin.  RALPH BARRERA/AMERICAN-STATESMAN
Boiler Nine Bar + Grill restaurant recently opened in the Seaholm Power Plant location on Cesar Chavez in downtown Austin.
RALPH BARRERA/AMERICAN-STATESMAN

Check out this video preview of the new Boiler Nine Bar + Grill, and then get a taste of the review by reading the first few grafs below. For the complete review, head to MyStatesman.com.

“This doesn’t look like Austin.”

“This doesn’t feel like Austin.”

Or, worse: “This looks like Dallas.”

You’ll hear some variation of that lament as you traverse parts of recently sprouted or newly polished Austin.

It’s too sparkling. It’s too slick. It’s too … new.

We like things a little more lived-in around here. Places with character. It doesn’t have to be old, but it helps if it can pass for having been around since before the 21st century. Sometimes just a reincarnation of an old spirit in a new body will do.

At least, that’s how a certain strain of Austinites feel. Many recent transplants, younger consumers and trend-chasers are drawn to the glossy, antiseptic familiarity of mixed-use developments found in every major city in America today. Servicing such disparate masters can be a real challenge.

Welcome to the world of being a restaurant operator today in Austin. The problem is highlighted by the wealth of first-generation restaurant spaces in town. How can you make a new space feel like it has earned history? And how can someone who’s been around awhile avoid the label of newcomer?

The sleek, industrial Boiler Nine Bar + Grill, named after its location in the former Seaholm Power Plant’s ninth boiler room, sits at the crux of Austin’s old-new conundrum. One of Austin’s newest restaurants (it opened this summer), it is located in one of the older buildings in Austin to house a restaurant. The restaurant is centered on the warming cuisine fueled by live-fire cooking, though the space looks like it just got removed from its plastic wrapping. And the team behind it isn’t new, but their context has changed.

Read the full review on MyStatesman.com.

Author: Matthew Odam

Restaurant critic & features writer at Austin American @Statesman and @Austin360. Austin-born 6th generation Texan. Left-handed.

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