Founding Barley Swine and Odd Duck partner opening Mexican restaurant in old Dario’s space in East Austin

People have long wondered what would become of the old Dario’s space at 1800 E. Sixth St. We now have our answer. 

Chef Sam Hellman-Mass, a founding partner of Barley Swine and Odd Duck, has purchased the space and will convert it into Suerte, a Mexican restaurant centered on house-made masa dishes using heirloom Central Texas corn. As with the two restaurants he helped build, Hellman-Mass will source locally, using seasonal ingredients from local farmers. The chef also intends to renovate the existing structure.

Sam Hellman-Mass is a former partner in two of the city’s best restaurants. (Photo credit: Suerte)

“We are so excited to join the East Austin community. Over the past few years I have really fallen in love with Mexican flavors and the quest for perfect masa. So far the search has led me to New York, San Francisco, Mexico City, Oaxaca, the Yucatan and more,”Hellman-Mass said. “I’m not sure only one perfect tortilla exists, but I am certain that our team is going to make some delicious food inspired by our travels. We can’t wait to share a bit of our journey and welcome everyone into our place.”

Longtime East Austin Tex-Mex staple Dario’s closed in 2014. Founder Dario Gonzalez and his sons still operate Don Dario’s Cantina at 8801 S. I-35 in Southpark Meadows.

Correction: A previous version of this headline incorrectly called Hellman-Mass a former partner in Odd Duck and Barley Swine.

Louie Mueller, Black’s Barbecue, Stiles Switch and Micklethwait Craft Meats headlining Taylor festival this weekend

A plate of brisket, bratwurst, knockwurst and jalapeno sausage from Micklethwait Craft Meats.

The inaugural Stomp’n’Holler BBQ and Music Festival is bringing together some of the biggest names in Texas barbecue and a mixture of rockabilly, country and bluegrass musical acts in downtown Taylor’s Heirtage Square on Saturday.

Taylor’s Louie Mueller Barbecue, Black’s Barbecue of Lockhart, Elgin’s Southside Market, and Austin’s Stiles Switch BBQ and Brew and Micklethwait Craft Meats are the biggest names of a group of 10 pitmasters that will serve smoked meat throughout the day.  Grammy-winning band The Mavericks will headline the list of bands that includes the Whiskey Shivers and Rosie Flores

Three levels of tickets are on sale, from $35 to $100. Visit stompnhollerfest.com for tickets and more information.

 

Juliet Ristorante on Barton Springs Road closing; will shift gears and reopen

Lasagna al forno at Juliet Ristorante. (Laura Skelding AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

Italian stunner Juliet Ristorante will close  after service Sunday and undergo several weeks of revamping. The restaurant intends to reopen in late June as Juliet Italian Kitchen, with more of an emphasis on family-style service and Italian-American classics, or “red-sauce dishes” as the style of cooking is often described. There will be changes to the space, as well as the menu.

The high design of Juliet, its most noteworthy feature, will apparently give way to a more approachable atmosphere, as the restaurant appears desirous to attract a different audience.

“It will feature menu, service and atmosphere developments that better serve both families and our neighborhood,” owner Dan Wilkins said in a release.

Executive chef Jacob Weaver will stay on board with Juliet, which is bringing in Austin-based Design Hound (Dai Due, L’Oca d’Oro) to reimagine the space.

“We will maintain a strong emphasis on quality and handmade products including our own pastas, cheeses, breads and desserts while delivering a more comfortable, predictable and nostalgic menu that we hope Austin will soon fall in love with,” Weaver said.

The restaurant opened about two years ago in a space that has seen several Italian restaurants pass through in the past decade, including Romeo’s and Umami Mia Pizzeria.

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From the archives (2015 review): Juliet is a beauty, but the packaging is misleading

 

Houston Chronicle not impressed with Tacodeli

“Baffled and underwhelmed,” not two words you usually hear an Austinite use to describe Tacodeli. But Alison Cook isn’t an Austinite, and she’s probably eaten more tacos than most Austinites reading this. The multiple James Beard award-winner uses those two inflammatory words up top in describing one of her experiences at the Austin-based restaurant that opened on Washington Avenue in Houston in April. And we thought San Antonio and Houston had taco beef.

The Otto at Tacodeli is proof that simplicity — black beans, bacon, cheese and avocado — is sometimes all you need. (Contributed by Tacodeli)

Tacodeli is one of several exports from Austin to Houston in recent years (including Uchi, Hopdoddy and JuiceLand), and Cook isn’t really feeling it. The esteemed critic and lover of Mexican food admits that one initial problem was lofty expectations. (Read the full review on HoustonChronicle.com.)

After that admission, she gets into the many reasons that led her to only gave Tacodeli one star, a rating that defines a restaurant as “a good restaurant that we recommend.”

She first goes in on the popular Frontera Fundido Sirloin taco. To wit:

The Frontera Fundido Sirloin taco that sounded so great on paper, with its carefully Texas-sourced grilled beef, never quite ignited for me despite its raja ribbons of sautéed onions and poblano, or its curious “jack cheese glaze.”

That glaze proved to be a salty gloss that hinted at the full, fat satisfaction of cheese without really coming through on its “fundido” promise. Later, I began thinking of the cheese glaze as a metaphor for my Tacodeli reservations. Ingredients I thought I’d love kept coming together in packages that left me strangely indifferent.

As for the tortillas, double fail. The “mediocre” flour variety had an “uninterestingly uniform texture, and none of that layery effect a really good flour tortilla acquires when it’s slapped on a griddle,”and the corn “were even more disappointing.”

My friend saves a good amount of her subtle snark for Austin culture, generally, rolling her eyes at the (admittedly”exceptional”) fair-trade coffee, Hill Country rainwater, organic ingredients and employees who looked like the belonged at a co-op or bookstore.

But it wasn’t all disappointment, Cook, who obviously prefers a less modernist take on tacos, did find some things she liked (hence the one star).

Among the positives: salsa roja, the breakfast tacos (specifically the Jessica), and the red chile adobo on pork al pastor.

In summation, she writes:

In other words, I’d go if it were convenient. But for destination-worthy tacos, I’d head to Villa Arcos or Laredo Taqueria, and their doughy hand-made flour tortillas with homestyle fillings; or to the Quesadillas y Mas Los Parados truck on North Main at Temple, where the blue-corn tortillas really do make my eyeballs roll back in my head a little, just the way they should.

Read the complete review on HoustonChronicle.com. And, check out Alison Cook’s list of the Top 100 Restaurants in Houston.

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U2 went to Whataburger?

(L-R) Adam Clayton, Bono, Larry Mullen Jr. and The Edge of U2 perform onstage on The Joshua Tree Tour at NRG Stadium on May 24, 2017 in Houston Texas.

If Burger King could co-opt Ashford and Simpson’s “Ain’t Nothing Like the Real Thing,” maybe Texas-grown Whataburger can license U2’s “Even Better than the Real Thing.” The Irish rockers allegedly dig the Texas chain. At least if this un-credited  photo from Twitter is to be believed.

It seems U2 drummer Larry Mullen Jr. and bass guitarist Adam Clayton hit Whataburger following their show in Houston. But, anyone with Photoshop could’ve pulled that off, right?

https://twitter.com/allad1nsane/status/867767493699395584

After this one photo, it may seem specious at best that the world-famous rockers would go to the Texas institution, but then there’s this photo of Bono at the same Whataburger, retweeted by Fernanda Bottini (@febottini). a Brazilian woman whose Twitter bio declares her a member of the U2 news staff. In her thread, Bottini says the photo up top was taken by Kaleen Bliss, wife of Canadian music promoter and power player Arthur Fogel.

If these Tweets are to be believed, that means Bono hung out with George W. Bush and went to Whataburger in a two-day span. Quite the Texas experience.

Now, the question is, what did they order? If it was me, it’d be a bacon Whataburger with cheese, jalapeños, mayo, mustard, pickles and onions. Spicy ketchup for the fries. Duh.

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How La Barbecue landed an Austin DJ a front-row seat in Stephen Colbert’s audience

We all knew La Barbecue was good. Apparently it’s good enough to get you a front-row seat at “The Late Show with Stephen Colbert.”

My buddy and I were heading into the parking lot to eat Thai food from the Dee Dee trailer (look for that review next week) when he ran into old friend Mikey Pendon, aka DJ Jester the Filipino Fist, a longtime Austin DJ. Mikey was loaded up with to-go brisket and sausage from the adjacent La Barbecue.

When asked what he was doing with all of that meat, Mikey said that a friend in New York City told him that if he brought him some awesome barbecue, he’d get him VIP tickets to “The Late Show with Stephen Colbert.” DJ Jester lived up to his word, and so did his buddy, as you can see Mikey (pictured) in a prime audience seat on Colbert’s show.

Mikey didn’t get to speak on camera, but the mash-up king did get to meet Colbert. He gives credit to people skills and “the best damn barbecue in the world.”

His only regret?

“I didn’t have time to give him a DJ Jester the Filipino Fist whoopee cushion. Had it in my back pocket ready, though,” Pendon said.

Old Thousand team opening Italian restaurant with former 40 North pizza trailer owner

Clint Elmore made a name for himself in Austin serving Neapolitan pizzas from the 40 North trailer on South First Street. (Matthew Odam AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

Pizza lovers in Austin likely remember 40 North, the former South First Street pizza trailer that landed on my list of the best pizza in Austin in 2015. Chef Clint Elmore, who trained studied in Naples and worked at Paulie Gee’s in Brooklyn before moving to Austin, said at the time of the trailer’s closure that he hoped to eventually be serving his pies from a brick-and-mortar restaurant and that time has arrived.

Elmore is moving his focus from Neapolitan pies to New York City-style pizzas at PS 35 in Round Rock, which opens Tuesday at 1500 N. I-35 in Round Rock. The restaurant will be operated by SMGB Hospitality Co., the group behind the successful East Austin casual Chinese restaurant Old Thousand. The name is a hybrid of the public school naming conventions of NYC (PS) and the location of I-35.

The menu will include some pizza stylings familiar to 40 North customers,  like the Hot Honey, with pepperoni, Italian sausage, ricotta, parmesan and Mike’s Hot Honey. In addition to pizzas, the restaurant will serve thin-crust pizza, hot and cold sandwiches on fresh baked bread, a selection of pasta dishes, salads, soft-serve ice cream, craft beer, and cocktails. The family-friendly restaurant will feature classic video games and an outdoor pavilion for live music,yard games, dining and drinking.

PS 35 is initially open only for dinner, from 5 to 10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; and 5 to 9 p.m. on Sunday.

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From the archives (2015): The best pizza in Austin

 

The Hightower hosts chef Alex Manley’s bagel pop-up on Memorial Day

(Credit: Nicholas Eubank)

Chef Alex Manley knows one of the big glaring holes in the Austin dining scene is the lack of great bagel options. And she’s trying to do something about it. The longtime Austin chef, a veteran of McGuire Moorman Hospitalty and Bufalina, is holding a bagel pop-up at The Hightower from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. on Memorial Day with MMH executive pastry chef Jennifer Tucker.

Manley’s bagels are hand-formed, boiled and baked in a wood-fired oven. SHe will serve bagels with cured and smoked fish and a selection of housemade cream cheese schmears. Additionally, FIgure 8 Coffee Purveyors will be on hand to serve espresso drinks and drip coffee.

Check out the menu below:

Plates

Classic ($7), cream cheese, tomato, cucumber, red onion, radish, caper

Hot smoked salmon ($15), cream cheese, cucumber, red onion, radish, caper

Nova lox ($15), cream cheese, cucumber, red onion, radish, caper

Whitefish salad ($14), cucumber, red onion, radish, caper

Salmon roe ($18), cream cheese, cucumber, red onion, radish, pickled cauliflower and carrot

Platters

Pickled & smoked ($28), cream cheese, cucumber, red onion, radish, caper

Fish & roe ($30). cream cheese, cucumber, red onion, radish, caper

All in ($60), cream cheese, cucumber, red onion, radish, caper, pickled cauliflower and carrot

New hours: Bonhomie starts brunch, and happy hour at J.T. Youngblood’s

Two new faces are joining the list of options during Austin’s two favorite dining and drinking portions of the week.

Mueller development fried chicken restaurant J.T. Youngblood’s has started weekday happy hour, Tuesda-Friday from 2 to 6 p.m. The restaurant helmed by Todd Duplechan of Lenoir is serving $3 beers, $4 cocktails and wine and $5 nuggets, wings and more.

Rum Baba French Toast. (Credit: Bonhomie’s Facebook page)

Philip Speer’s new French-bistro-meets-Waffle-House spot Bonhomie (5350 Burnet Road) will begin brunch this weekend. Bonhomie will serve brunch from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday. The brunch menu includes a roster of pommes rosti (think fancy hash browns) made with toppings like pear butter, yogurt and chive; and foie gras gravy, cognac and a soft egg.

Check out Bonhomie’s brunch menu below:

Celebrate National Hamburger Day with the best burgers in Austin

National Hamburger Day (I’ll save you a click, you don’t get a day off of work or anything) is Sunday. In honor of this most magnificent fake holiday, I’m re-posting my Best Hamburgers in Austin list from 2015. I’m just posting them in numerical order here; if you want the juicy goodness on all of them, go read the original story for my rationale and beautiful adjectives and thrilling verbs.

Obviously, this list is a little bit dated. Some of these wouldn’t be on my list now, and others would be. I haven’t had time to revisit them all, and the dozens (hundreds?) of places in Austin that serve burgers, but I am going to go ahead and throw in a few extra from my last two years of dining. The new additions you see below would make the updated list, which I may or may not be currently researching. If you don’t see your favorite, tell me what a dummy I am in the comments section. (I know there are some I must still try. Looking at you, L’Oca d’Oro brunch burger.) Happy National Burger Day.

The burger at Odd Duck. (Laura Skelding AMERICAN-STATESMAN)
07/23/15 Laura Skelding/AMERICAN-STATESMAN
Dining Guide: Matthew Odam’s Top 25 restaurants in Austin. The green tomato hamburger at Odd Duck.
103015 xl cover

New editions first (alphabetically):

Cafe No Se, Casino El Camino, Dai Due, Garbo’sJune’s All Day, The Townsend

2015 List

  1. Odd Duck. 1201 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-433-6521, oddduckaustin.com
  1. Hopfields. 3110 Guadalupe St. 512-537-0467, hopfieldsaustin.com
  1. Second Bar + Kitchen. 200 Congress Ave. 512-827-2750, secondbarkitchen.com
  1. Jeffrey’s. 1204 W. Lynn St. 512-477-5584, jeffreysofaustin.com
  1. Launderette. 2115 Holly St. 512-382-1599, launderetteaustin.com
  1. Clark’s. 1200 W. Sixth St. 512-297-2525, clarksoysterbar.com
  1. Luke’s Inside Out. 1109 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-589-8883, lukesinsideout.com
  1. Swift’s Attic. 315 Congress Ave. 512-482-8842, swiftsattic.com
  1. Black Star Co-Op. 7020 Easy Wind Drive. 512-452-2337, blackstar.coop
  1. Henri’s (now closed)
  2. Parkside. 301 E. Sixth St. 512-474-9898, parkside-austin.com
  1. Contigo. 2027 Anchor Lane. 512-614-2260, contigotexas.com/austin
  1. Jacoby’s Restaurant and Mercantile. 3235 E. Cesar Chavez St. 512-366-5808, jacobysaustin.com
  1. Drink Well. 207 E. 53rd St. 512-614-6683, drinkwellaustin.com
  1. Salt & Time. 1912 E. Seventh St. 512-524-1383, saltandtime.com

 

Six classic burgers for about $6 (alphabetically)

Crown and Anchor. 2911 San Jacinto Blvd. 512-322-9168, crownandanchorpub.com

Dan’s Hamburgers. Four locations in the greater Austin area. danshamburgers.com

Lebowski’s Grill at Highland Lanes. 8909 Burnet Road. 512-419-7166, highlandlanes.com/lebowskis-grill

Nau’s Enfield Drug. 1115 W. Lynn St. 512-476-3663, nausdrug.com

P. Terry’s. Multiple locations. pterrys.com

Top Notch. 7525 Burnet Road. 512-452-2181, topnotchaustin.com

Best veggie burger

Veggie Royale at Bouldin Creek Café. 1900 S. First St. 512-416-1601, bouldincreek.com

Honorable mention veggie burger

Arlo’s. Multiple locations. arlostruck.com

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