Restaurant news, dining events and suggested bites from Statesman restaurant critic Matthew Odam.
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Video: Review of Kyoten Sushiko

12:50 pm Nov. 3, 2016

Austin’s hottest new sushi restaurant is Kyoten Sushiko and it has everything: a quirky, obsessive chef; exceptional food; a server who does his dry cleaning in a bathtub; and all of the charm of an unfurnished model apartment.

Apologies to Bill Hader’s Stefon character from “Saturday Night Live,” but I kept slipping back into that absurd and lovable character’s voice when trying to explain the surreal experience of dining at chef

Striped bass at Chicon. (Credit: Ricardo B. Brazziell AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

Watch: Restaurant review of Chicon in East Austin

12:37 pm Jun. 23, 2016

Ben Edgerton and chef Andrew Wiseheart closed their fine dining, veggie-centric Gardner earlier this year. But they didn’t walk away from the restaurant. They revamped the menu and design to create the more casual Chicon,

A dish of smoked and seared duck exhibits the artful plating at Counter 357.  (Laura Skelding/AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

Restaurant review: Counter 357

4:34 pm Jul. 9, 2015

The sunglow yellow cucumber flower that brightened a plate of sumptuous country pâté came from chef Lawrence Kocurek’s garden. The pickled and sliced quail eggs, magenta on the outside with jonquil yellow yolks, paid homage

Brussels sprouts in almond miso at Gardner. (Credit: Ricardo B. Brazziell AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

Multimedia restaurant review: Gardner

5:06 pm Jan. 15, 2015

This week I reviewed Gardner, the new veggie-centric restaurant from the owners of ranch-inspired Contigo. Gardner rides a surging movement of restaurants focused on showcasing vegetables. Chefs across the country — from Oxheart in Houston