Queso the Mondays: Tacodeli

Roberto’s Brazo Fuerte Dip & Chips at Tacodeli. (Credit: Matthew Odam AMERICAN-STATESMAN)
Roberto’s Brazo Fuerte at Tacodeli. (Credit: Matthew Odam AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

Roberto’s Brazo Fuerte at Tacodeli (medium, $7.25). Multiple locations. tacodeli.com.

I’m only running out one queso on this Monday because man can not live on queso alone. Besides, last week was a little rough, and this queso arguably deserves its own entry.

Want to be the hero at your office’s Monday morning meeting? Walk in with a dish of the pale gold that is the Roberto’s Brazo Fuerte from Tacodeli. The upgrade to their regular queso comes with the Akaushi picadillo from their popular lunch taco, but if you get there before 11 a.m., like I did (pro tip: between 9:30 a.m. and 11:30 a.m. or after 2 p.m. are the sweet spots at the Spyglass location), you have a choice between sausage and chorizo.

Go with the chorizo. It gives a mild piquancy, with a touch of that chorizo funk, to the white cheese base that is somehow thick and runny at the same time. That consistency is good for coating your chips (made with 1oo percent organic masa), but it also means you might be licking your knuckles and the side of your hand. The cheese dip is milky and pleasurably salty (the chorizo played a hand in that), and the pico mix contains jalapenos with good, firm snap and floral cilantro that sings through the mix. If you want to stick to vegetarian queso, as to not upset your friends (or music critic), you can go with the regular queso for $3.75, $6.50 or $8.50.

Author: Matthew Odam

Restaurant critic & features writer at Austin American @Statesman and @Austin360. Austin-born 6th generation Texan. Left-handed.

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